DRIP IRRIGATION WATER CHANGE help

bstro747 · 06-01-2012, 12:56 PM

Hi all
ive thought about using constant drip water change insted of changing some water every 2 weeks,

Just wanderd if any one else does this and what equipments best to do so ?

any info would be a great help

thanks

freddy · 06-01-2012, 01:13 PM

Hi there.

Do you have an overflow? Also, what are you using at the moment to treat your water?

Gazfish · 06-01-2012, 01:55 PM

Hi Guys,

A constant trickle is a good thing as you have a good amount of fresh water through a purifier into the pond but remember you still must carry out your filter maintenance.

As long as you have an overflow it will work a treat

Doghouse Riley · 06-01-2012, 02:12 PM

You need an overflow as has been mentioned, mine connects to the house drain outside the kitchen window.

The actual drain socket in the side of the pool is about 3 inches lower than the present pool level and by either raising or lowering the skimmer connected to it (it's just to collect any surface debris) I can raise or lower the level in the pool by between three and six inches. The skimmer/outlet is to the right of the bridge which covers the filter return pipes. The cover to the filter pump sump you can just about see to the left of the bridge. It's the only "give away" that there is a filter system.

I can also let the pool water trickle to waste by adjusting the height of the pipe from the drain pump in the filter pump sump connected to the bottom drain. In this way, if for any reason the skimmer gets blocked, (frogs are favourite for sitting in it during the colder weather) the water will escape via the drain pump connection. The pipe connects to the same pipe that is from the skimmer, it's all under the pool collar and the patio, running a distance of about 35ft to the drain. Here I'm draining the sump (the little hole leaking water is to stop it siphoning when I turn off the pump), by swiveling the bends in the pipe I can alter the height at which the water in the pool will naturally drain.
This combination means I can trickle out either surface or bottom water.

I've a dedicated tap in my filter room in the garage to the side of the pool where I trickle in fresh water via a transparent funnel (top of a plastic water bottle) so I can see at what rate I'm trickling the water in. I can also check what's coming out by looking at the outlet over the kitchen drain.

You can just see the funnel above the air pump, the funnel is connected to one of the four 1.5" returns from the filter to the pool.

This system has been working without any problems for 25 years.

I know roughly "by eye" how much water I'm changing 24/7 as I've been doing it that long.

The water going into the funnel is via a piece of garden hose connected to the tap. It's easy enough to let it trickle into a container of known capacity and time how long it takes to reach, say a pint, then do the maths to work out how much you'd be changing in a week. Remember most utility companies reduce the water pressure by 50% roughly between midnight and five or six am. (because of all their leaks).

At the rate I'm tricking into 3,000 gallons I'm not bothered about purification, any chlorine will dissipate naturally and the water quality locally is excellent.

Gavin · 06-01-2012, 03:04 PM

DHR - What about any heavy metals that are contained in your mains waters..if you dont filter these out via a purifier, you are just adding these straight into your pond.

Doghouse Riley · 06-01-2012, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gavin

DHR - What about any heavy metals that are contained in your mains waters..if you dont filter these out via a purifier, you are just adding these straight into your pond.

Yep, been doing it for 25 years, each to their own, but I work on the basis that if it's fit enough to drink it'll be OK for the fish at the rate of change. There's plenty of companies willing to sell you essential "stuff."

I started keeping koi 25 years ago and no one worried about heavy metals in those days and few members of the regional koi society worried about them either. In fact I can't remember it ever being discussed at the meetings I regularly attended.

bstro747 · 06-01-2012, 04:50 PM

at the moment i have a water tank that i fill up and leave till the next water change so the clorine is not present, i pump a few inches out of the pond then pump the fresh back in.

i want to change the method as the fish seem to get a bit scared of whats happening, dont kno weather they can sence the water leval dropping?

i do have an overflow but only for rain water and it goes into the flower bed next to the pond, i think i will modify this into the drain and have a go at what doghouse riley has done,

thanks for the help guys

freddy · 06-01-2012, 05:27 PM

Hi again.

For a trickle feed you'll definately need some method for getting rid of the water, and to this end, an overflow straight to a drain is best.

Regarding water going in, MOST would suggest having a water filter of some kind, pods being the most popular. A water meter is also helpful, as this will allow you to monitor how much water is going in. Not for one minute am I saying that DHR's method is no good! However, one needs to bear in mind that the fish have to live in it, and not just drink it. It may well be the case that there wouldn't be any harm done, but personally I wouldn't want to take the chance. Hope this helps...

Cheers...Freddy.

Doghouse Riley · 06-01-2012, 07:11 PM

A drain connection is essential, otherwise you'd end up with a permanently soggy garden and you don't want a situation where water could flow back into the pool.

efficiencyman · 08-01-2012, 11:44 PM

Hi Bstro, I`ve used for many years now a stadard brass "attic" 15mm ball valve for automatic top up. Mine`s mounted onto my gravity fed Vortex, it keeps the level perfect in my pond! When I flush any of my wastes to drain, it automactically makes the level correct, very simple via an activated carbon decolrinator filter (of course).