drilling pond wall

markf1fan · 11-11-2011, 06:27 PM

hi all
as some will know i run a bakki shower on my pond but have to run a pump in the pond to get the water to the bakki. has any one ever built a pond out of 9" blocks and then has to drill a hole in them to fit a outlet or return. also having a liner is this really a thing to do or just leave it be.

Doghouse Riley · 11-11-2011, 06:58 PM

I've never done it, so this is just a guess. I'd think it possible, but there's a few things to consider.
The blocks are easy enough to get through, mind you I'm saying that as I have a heavy duty slow turning drill that takes masonry bits of an inch or more in diameter. What you don't want to happen is bits of block falling down between the liner and the wall, or the liner getting wound round the bit as you drill through.
I'd tackle it from the pool side and try to find a way to contain the dust.

Gazfish · 11-11-2011, 08:07 PM

Hi Mark,

Yes it can be done and its not that hard and you just need to use a core hole drill which you can hire from a local hire branch. They go to big sizes and it makes it easy work and you should get too much rubble down the liner as the big stuff stays in the core drill and just the dust falls out but if you drill from the outside in i reckon it will be fine.

markf1fan · 11-11-2011, 08:40 PM

i really want to do this but am scared of getting it wrong and f---ing it right up. has any one ever done it themselfs who would be willing to do it lol.

Gazfish · 11-11-2011, 08:58 PM

Hi Mark,

Its easy with a core drill Ive drilled loads of holes with them (not on ponds) and they go through concrete blocks nice and easy and i think Dave did one a while back.

john t · 11-11-2011, 08:59 PM

hi mark

i have just done that however i did it on railway sleepers 5" thick and then through a liner then fitted a 2" tank connector to it. took me a while but i did it on monday just gone,what i did was lower the water down to below of where i was going to put the under water return, then i got a hole saw(i know its not concrete and was easy) and drilled through then made sure of where the tank connector was going to the liner and cut it. at this point i was sh@%!ng it but held my nerve and now i have an under water return.
bottom drain to nexus 200 (i carnt afford a new one)through a oase eco 8000 then in to 3kw heater then in to 55 watt uv then back to pond.

just take you time its not a race and you should be ok.

cheers

john t

markf1fan · 11-11-2011, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gazfish

Hi Mark,

Its easy with a core drill Ive drilled loads of holes with them (not on ponds) and they go through concrete blocks nice and easy and i think Dave did one a while back.

Quote:

Originally Posted by john t

hi mark

i have just done that however i did it on railway sleepers 5" thick and then through a liner then fitted a 2" tank connector to it. took me a while but i did it on monday just gone,what i did was lower the water down to below of where i was going to put the under water return, then i got a hole saw(i know its not concrete and was easy) and drilled through then made sure of where the tank connector was going to the liner and cut it. at this point i was sh@%!ng it but held my nerve and now i have an under water return.
bottom drain to nexus 200 (i carnt afford a new one)through a oase eco 8000 then in to 3kw heater then in to 55 watt uv then back to pond.

just take you time its not a race and you should be ok.

cheers

john t

it all sounds so easy,i know when i put the liner in i was sh--ing myself doing the bottom drain and returns but they came out ok. i would be worried that if i did just one thing wrong then it could be a big mistake and cost me big time.

the other thing is how do you get the flang onto the straight pipe and through the small hole in the liner, also how would you seal around the straight pipe coming through the block work.

john t · 11-11-2011, 09:19 PM

mark

i solvent welded a length of 2" pipe of the return in to the flanged tank connector then the liner i put over the tank connector then i screwed the 4 screws that came with the tank connector to attatch the ring over the liner,with that in place i cut the liner for the hole of the return then i unscrewed the screws so i had my holes to go by then i got some gold seal sealant and ran a bead on the inside of the ring facing the liner as to seal it and i also ran a bead around the return to the water to be safe then i screwed it down tight,im the worlds worst diy'er but i managed it mark so im sure you can if i was nearer to you i would do it for you.

good luck

john t

MarkD · 11-11-2011, 09:41 PM

Hi Mark

I had to drill though my 9'' blocks then though the pump house adjoining the pond to put a 4'' return in. This is around 2 1/2 foot thick comprising of blocks,wood, metal and insulation material. It was easy to do just need to be patient with it, but really make sure the liner is well away from the core bit. When I was drilling though the pump room wall the insulation wrapped itself around the drill which was not good. The insulation put in by the previous house owner is stufed full of hot water tank jackets.

Doghouse Riley · 11-11-2011, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkD

Hi Mark

I had to drill though my 9'' blocks then though the pump house adjoining the pond to put a 4'' return in. This is around 2 1/2 foot thick comprising of blocks,wood, metal and insulation material. It was easy to do just need to be patient with it, but really make sure the liner is well away from the core bit. When I was drilling though the pump room wall the insulation wrapped itself around the drill which was not good. The insulation put in by the previous house owner is stuffed full of hot water tank jackets.

The "wrap around" bit was what I suggested could be a concern.
Also be careful this doesn't happen.

Gromit Drilling.flv - YouTube